Elegant nose of moderate sherry and roasted chestunts, toffee, white wine, and candied fruit that's somehow been slightly burnt. Bacon and ham notes as it opens up.

Palate is elegant and easy, silky, with restrained toffee again, gentle sherry, and a fraction of the oak I'd expect at this age. Fruitier stuff comes on some sips, apricots, figs for sure. Fits the distillery's traditional profile.

Finish is on the shorter side of longer finishes, but it's a great crescendo into light smoke and spice, with fleeting ins-and-outs of "what-was-that?" (And whatever it is, I like it).

An excellently-balanced sipper that brings a little something of everything. Drinks dangerously easily, especially considering how much each sip technically costs. And there is the one major, major, major drawback of an otherwise excellent whisky.